REVIEW'D: Fort Reno Provisions

For a while now, there's been absolutely zip in terms of true BBQ here in Park Slope. The closest option? Smoke Joint up in Fort Greene. As of today, shit done changed.

As we reported this past Friday, Union Street's getting not one but two BBQ joints—Fort Reno BBQ & Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. While Dinosaur Bar-B-Que & their four NY locales are already well known, Fort Reno is a brand new joint from Jacques Gautier, the owner & chef of Palo Santo, Lia Foreman of Colicchio & Sons and Anthony Laudato.

All three partners are Park Slope residents, but Jacques & Anthony grew up together in D.C., where the highest point in the city is Fort Reno Park. The park is home to 4th of July gatherings, a free summer concert series that's seen bands like Fugazi & The Dismemberment Plan grace the stage & kids looking to smoke pot. From this park comes the name—Fort Reno Provisions.

It's located in the storefront that used to house Mama Rosa, which you may remember as the restaurant that, before they went out of business, served Erica the BEST MEAL EVER. Shit just went downhill from there for them & they're dunzo now, so I guess you sort of have FIPS to thank for freeing the space up for some BBQ.

You’re welcome.

Though Fort Reno officially opens for business tonight, last night they held a press preview of their menu to test things out in the kitchen & behind the bar. I stopped by for a dinner & cocktail.

It's a small place, with seating for twelve at tables & seating for another eight at the bar. To enhance the BBQ setting, it's dark & done up like a shack with wood flowing all the way up onto the ceiling.

The room's centered around a bar, which will feature cocktails with names like the "Grand Turismo" & the "Fascinator," alongside four taps & big bottles of Brooklyn beers like the Sorachi Ace & Local 1.

I started with the Bobbito Burns, a cocktail of mescal, averna, benedictine & Bitter's Old Men Gangsta Lee'n Meat Bitters. That's right. MEAT BITTERS. The formula's friggin' 1/3 bacon. While it didn't taste like straight-up meat, it did have a smokiness to it, one that I guess sort of complimented the meal.

For dinner, they had three choices of proteins (pulled pork, pork ribs & brisket) and five options for sides (cole slaw, mac & cheese, collards, biscuits & baked beans).

We each got to choose a protein & two sides, so I opted for the pulled pork with the mac & cheese and the collards.

All of their meats are served by the pound ($10-$15) & come to the table on butcher paper. They're mostly sourced from Heritage Foods, who specialize in high-quality, humane-raised meat.

As for the pulled pork, for a while now my go-to BBQ spot has been Smoke Joint. Fort Reno's pulled pork definitely rivals theirs. It's well smoked, resulting in a moist pork with some crispy bits here & there and a subtle smokiness.

To be honest though, while piles of meat are great & all, I'm usually more about the sides at BBQ joints. Since the menu's basically meat or sides, Fort Reno's relying on their sides ($5/each) to satisfy Park Slope's many vegetarians. Of the two I sampled, my favorite was the mac & cheese.

It's made up of shells with a creamy cheese sauce that's not overpowering. There is a hefty sprinkling of crisp bread crumbs on top. Each bite ended with a slight peppery aftertaste that complimented the smokiness in both the pulled pork & the Bobbito Burns.

The collards had a slightly sweet flavor to them, with hints of garlic, onion & vinegar. For me, collards are a relatively new thing but from what I've tried, Fort Reno's are done right.

Since it's such a small locale, they hope to do a good portion of their business from take-out & delivery. I'll be interested to see how busy they get and, as a result, how easy it'll be to drop in & grab some BBQ. Hopefully it won't get too ridiculous. After all, for now they're all we've got.

Fort Reno BBQ, 669 Union St

Read way more from Shawn at eatdrinksnack.com.