[What You Should Order At…] Nahm Thai Kitchen
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Two words: Vegetarian Duck.
For someone who doesn’t eat meat, there’s no greater delicacy than vegetarian duck (also known as mock duck ). It’s basically a seitan concoction that is stewed in a shit-ton of soy sauce and MSG. When my husband and I lived in Chelsea, we would get our fix at a place called Home on Eighth that has since closed. When we were childless and he worked in the East Village, we would go to Pukk. Now that we live in Park Slope, and don’t venture further than the 3rd Street playground, we go to Nahm. I’m sorry, that was misleading. I should have said Nahm comes to us. We’ve never actually been inside.
The Nahm menu features every classic Thai dish an American has come to expect. But here’s where they set themselves apart: every entree can be ordered with…you guessed it…VEGETARIAN DUCK! So the vegetarian never, ever feels left out. Your friend’s calling in an order of Sweet and Sour Beef? Ha! No problem! You order the Sweet and Sour VD! Your parents are in town and want Peanut Curry with Chicken? Fine! You get Peanut Curry with VD! Your ex-girlfriend tempts you with spicy noodles and shrimp? You’ll show her with spicy noodles and your VD!
If you’re new to Nahm, or to Vegetarian Duck in general, I can point out a couple of classics to get you started. First, there’s the Vegetarian Duck Basil. This dish is fairly hot, so only order if you’re into spice. It’s a blend of string beans, carrots, bell peppers, onions, snow peas, and bamboo slices in a chili basil sauce. You’ll notice that the portion is not huge (the plastic take out bowl comes about half full), but it is so addictive all is forgiven. It comes with white rice, but tastes better with brown. (And I’m not saying that because I’m a healthy eater. I’m not. The brown rice really does complement the VD).
If the portion thing turns you off, go instead for the Rice Noodle with Broccoli and Vegetarian Duck. For this one, they fill the plastic bowl to the top. Big, fat flat noodles, egg, American and Chinese broccoli, and enough VD to choke a horse. No rice needed here.
By the way, they keep the price structure nice and simple. Every VD dish is the same: $9.25. Same for chicken. Beef, shrimp, or squid will run you $10.25. RD (Real Duck) is $13.25. Since the entrees are so reasonable, you won’t feel too bad when you also order some crispy vegetarian spring rolls for $4.95.
I’ve found Nahm’s one downside to be consistency. Sometimes the Vegetarian Duck Basil doesn’t taste as good as other times. It’s not the VD itself (that stuff comes from a can, so it’s always perfect), but the surrounding elements. Sometimes the vegetable proportions are off, sometimes the sauce isn’t saucy enough… you know how it goes. One time I ordered brown rice and got a carton of half brown rice and half white rice so overcooked that for a moment I thought it was mashed potatoes. Weird, but not nearly weird enough for me to stop getting takeout every Sunday and Wednesday night.
Click HERE for the full Nahm menu (but note that the prices are old!).
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